Jewelry that brings out the full appeal of gemstones (diamonds)

When designing and creating jewelry with a center stone, the most important thing to consider is how to bring out the charm of the gemstone that is the center of the piece.

As you know, there are many factors that contribute to the allure of a gemstone, such as “brilliance,” “color,” “cut,” “shape,” etc., and these factors are what make each gemstone unique.In this article, we would like to share with you some of our own ideas on how to create a diamond as a center stone.

One of the most attractive features of a diamond is its brilliance.　　

The better the proportions of the diamond, the more intense the sparkle, called scintillation, can be seen.

However, when diamonds are made into jewelry, they must be set in a platinum or 18k gold base, which hides the diamonds from view and prevents their sparkle from being seen.　

OKURADO has a special setting technique called SSS (stainless steel setting).　　

This is a method of clasping diamonds that maximizes scintillation by minimizing the amount of precious metal (the part that is hidden) by using stainless steel, which has superior strength, only for the part that holds the diamond in place.　The setting is so small that it is almost unnoticeable to the naked eye, allowing the wearer to enjoy maximum brilliance.

Necklaces from SSS collection

LEFT: under diamond is set with our SSS technique

RIGHT: surrounding four diamonds are set with our SSS technique

Not only this setting, but the brilliance of the diamond when it is made into jewelry depends on how well the diamond is not hidden by precious metal.

The brilliance of diamonds varies greatly depending on the shape and cut of the diamond.　

The photo below shows a ring with a rectangular diamond with four slightly beveled corners (cut-cornered rectangular step cut in English).The platinum claws that hold the diamond in place (the claws are also filled with melee diamonds).

The claws follow the shape of the diamond on both sides (simple but very difficult to form beautifully), and the design is intended to bring out the charm of the diamond’s exterior shape.

A shape that emerged a few years ago is the kite (Western kite shape) cut diamond.　It is a sharper version of the traditional drop pear shape.

The photo below shows a ring with a kite-cut diamond highlighted in the design and titled “Lights” as if it were a lantern.

Of course, the claws used in the setting are as small as possible so as not to disturb the shape, and the diamond is made to take advantage of the charm of its shape.

Sometimes we come across diamonds that are so beautiful that we think it is best to look at them as they are. However, unless they are designed and made into jewelry, they cannot be worn.　

So, we make jewelry by considering how to make jewelry that preserves the original beauty of the stone and how to make jewelry that brings out the charm of the stone.

A beautiful center stone jewelry should have a subtle intention of the maker or designer to enhance the beauty of the stone.

In some cases, this intention may go unnoticed.　If the viewer does not notice it, it is a sign that the designer/creator has succeeded.　

If the viewer does not notice it, it is a sign that the designer/creator has succeeded, because the only thing the creator wants to enhance above all else is the beauty of the center stone.　

Hitoshi Okura

OKURADO

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